It’s no secret that I’m a huge history nerd and always have been. When I was in middle school, I gladly volunteered at my town’s historical village giving tours and becoming a little local expert of sorts.
The first place I lived here in DC was Old Town Alexandria and immediately fell in love with the rich history there, from way back when it was one of America’s biggest port cities, to dining where George Washington dined, to being a few blocks from the boyhood home of Robert E. Lee to Alexandria’s unique Scottish lineage.
Another very interesting aspect of this part of the country is its Civil War history. Any time I drive out to the Virginia wineries, I notice the white plaques along the side of the roads and the “Civil War Trail” signs signifying what happened where. Having grown up in a pioneer state, this is something different to me and I’ve loved getting to know it better.
One thing I’d been meaning to do, however, is checking out some of the battlefields around here. Every time the weather would get warm, I would think to myself, “this summer, I’ll go tour ____ battlefield.” And, as is the case with so many things, I never got around to it.
Well, when this quarantine thing started, it became apparent that I’d need to start getting a bit creative if I was going to maintain some sort of sanity. One of the few things that isn’t banned is walking outside. In fact, depending on who you talk to, outdoor exercise is extremely encouraged.
So, I did some research and found that most of the battlefields in the area are still open for hiking.. and guess what? That’s the best part of going to a battlefield anyway! Sure, the visitors centers are nice, I’m sure, but you can find any information that’s in there online. Here I’ve compiled a list of places you totally should check out and what you should do ahead of time to make up for the fact that the visitors centers are closed. I hope you enjoy!
Harpers Ferry
How it took me so long to get to Harpers Ferry, I’ll never know. I think it’s one of the most naturally beautiful places I’ve ever seen and it’s only like 40 minutes from me. While there was a battle of Harpers Ferry, the main history of the town centers around an abolitionist named John Brown who led a slave raid and was hanged in 1859. In fact, Showtime is premiering an 8-part rendition of John Brown’s story some time this year. While the battlefield is certainly worth seeing, I highly recommend grabbing a beer or two to go at Harpers Ferry Brewing (and take a load of the view… amazing) and doing a hike to the place that the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers converge. It’s nothing like you’ve ever seen before and so, SO worth doing.
Honestly, to prepare for a trip to Harpers Ferry, it’s worth forking over the money to rent Ken Burns’ Civil War Docuseries. The one that’s focused on Harpers Ferry and John Brown is the first episode.
Monocacy
While perhaps not the most noteworthy of Civil War battles, it was the northernmost Confederate victory and still very much worth the trip to visit! Monocacy is also where the “Lost Order” was found, which was a message that Robert E Lee was sending to his men that was found by Union soldiers. Park at visitors center and follow the signs around. It’s somewhat complicated; you’ll park, walk, drive, walk and drive again, but it’s a great way to get the whole experience.
Antietam
It’s OK, you don’t need to say it aloud.. I’m a very talented iPhone photographer, I know. I know.
I’ve been bugging Jim to go to Antietam with me ever since this whole thing started and I GUSHED at finally getting to go. It’s been on my list quite literally since I moved here and it was so cool to finally see. Antietam, also known as the Battle of Sharpsburg, was the bloodiest single-day battle in the Civil War, and it’s so sobering to be there. I found a monument of a unit from Cleveland and wondered whose descendants I know. Not only is Antietam cool to see because of its history, it’s also gorgeous overall. President McKinley fought at Antietam and there’s a huge monument to him there. Be prepared to walk a LOT, but it’s awesome to see!
To prepare for Antietam, Episode 3 of Ken Burns docuseries will explain it well!
Chancellorsville
I’m saving my favorite for last because I absolutely, positively loved everything about visiting Chancellorsville. I always found Stonewall Jackson to be an interesting historical figure, and it was at Chancellorsville that he was shot by friendly fire, which eventually lead to his death at the age of 38. Chancellorsville is more like a “battle forest” rather than a battle field because a lot of the fighting was actually done in the woods. I highly recommend watching Gods and Generals before visiting Chancellorsville. It’s a long movie but you have time these days :).
This battle was a major victory for the Confederates and it occurred right before Gettysburg. When you visit, park at the visitors center and take the 3.9 mile loop hike from there. You’ll see several places where the original trenches (aka “earthworks”) remain and really get a feel for what the fighting was like. It’s unlike any battlefield experience I’ve had before and is almost eerie. It’s always so sobering to be in a place where so many men lost their lives, but being in a somewhat creepy wood for it makes it even more meaningful. I highly, HIGHLY recommend visiting Chancellorsville. It’s absolutely fantastic.
One very obvious battlefield that I did not mention here is Gettysburg because that is surprisingly one I haven’t been to since quarantine started… but I’ve been several times before. I frankly don’t know if it’s worth venturing up to right now because Gettysburg is HUGE and it would be difficult to get a feel for it without doing the audio car tour, which you can only get in the visitor’s center. Under normal circumstances, Gettysburg is another favorite of mine. It’s so deeply meaningful.
Anyway, I would encourage you to get a bit of history this weekend by venturing out to a Civil War battlefield! Just make sure you do some research ahead of time to get the most out of your experience. Note that these are NOT popular attractions right now, so no need to worry about social distancing.. I promise you’ll be more than fine!
Have a great Tuesday!
